Pinot Gris Rotenberg, Sélection de Grains Nobles 2005 375ml

A noble sweet white wine from Alsace, in which sweetness and acidity both reach extremes. Intense amber in the glass, with dried apricots, ripe apples and pear compote on the nose, alongside liquid honey, beeswax, brioche and sweet pastry.

The Rotenberg sits on red, iron-rich limestone in an area with a late ripening period, which allows the grapes to retain a very good acid balance. In 2005 the yield here was somewhat lower, but the richness of the Sélection de Grains Nobles was all the greater for it. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht in Turckheim has farmed 42 hectares biodynamically since Olivier Humbrecht, the first Frenchman to become a Master of Wine, converted the first five hectares in 1996.

Pinot Gris from a Sélection de Grains Nobles, meaning grapes affected by noble rot. The harvest reached over 200 degrees Oechsle. The wine was fermented in a small 600-litre barrel, leaving almost 300 grams of residual sugar, with an alcohol content of 8.0% ABV.

The sweetness hits with such intensity that it pleasantly stimulates the palate, yet lively acidity and striking minerality keep this richness in check. Honey and toasted notes linger on the tongue for a very long time, the sensation delicate rather than heavy.

This wine needs little accompaniment. Piquant dishes and desserts provide a fine counterpoint: blue cheese, tarts and cakes, tropical fruit, root vegetables, as well as game and hare.

The 375ml half bottle suits a wine of which a small glass is enough. With this concentration, acidity and length, it now calls for a good spell in the cellar.