Pinot Noir Grand P (von Grand Cru Pfersigberg) AC 2023

A rich, concentrated Pinot Noir that carries its power with remarkable grace. In its youth it still keeps its distance: only with air do sour cherry, wild raspberry, blackcurrant and fresh blackberry emerge from the glass, followed later by dark chocolate, earth, tobacco and truffle, along with delicate spices of cinnamon, juniper and clove. A stony minerality underlies it all.

The grapes grow in the Grand Cru Pfersigberg near Eguisheim, whose name can be traced back to 16th-century lease documents between lords and monasteries. The soil consists of limestone and calcareous sandstone, the slopes face south and southwest, and the vines are around 40 years old. Domaine Albert Mann in Wettolsheim is run by brothers-in-law Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé, who have farmed their 25 hectares across six Grand Cru sites biodynamically since 1997.

Pure Pinot Noir, hand-harvested into small 20-kilo crates. In the cellar, infusion takes precedence over extraction: gravity-fed vinification in an open tank, spontaneous fermentation, malolactic fermentation in spring, 25% whole clusters. This is followed by 17 months in barrique, 11% of which is new oak, unfined.

Powerful, with demanding sour cherry fruit, pronounced youthful acidity and firm tannic structure. The full body nonetheless stays bright and precise, carried by red berries and summer flowers. The finish is broad and intensely fruity.

A wine for the table: saddle of venison, braised leg of lamb or duck breast with cherries. Equally good with mushroom risotto and aged Munster cheese.

The 2023 vintage was marked by record heat; welcome rainfall helped the vines, preserving freshness and precision. A Pinot Noir that sets a benchmark for Alsace. Those opening it now should decant generously; it also holds up well over several days once open.