El Mas de l'A. Lo Noir 2021

A purist: lean in structure, silky, carried by cool spice. Alfredo Arribas describes Lo Noir as his dream of pursuing absolute finesse without giving up intensity. 13.5% ABV, dry.

The vines grow on limestone soil at 500 metres of altitude. Alfredo Arribas, an architect in Barcelona before his career as a winemaker, bought land in the south of Priorat near El Lloar and Bellmunt in 2001, farming it organically and biodynamically, with radically limited yields of around one kilogram of grapes per vine.

Pinot Noir and Grenache: Grenache belongs to Priorat's traditional plantings, while Pinot Noir is a rarity here. Fermentation proceeds spontaneously with wild yeasts, partly in steel tanks, partly in large French oak casks with a capacity of 500 and 600 litres. The smallest lots ferment separately and are blended early, so the two worlds come together. The wine then ages for twelve months in the same oak casks. In the cellar, Juan Asens continues this approach: short macerations, minimal use of sulphur, no new barriques.

At first, the glass is marked by a wild reduction that fades after a few minutes; vigorous decanting speeds this up. Behind it lie pure sour cherry, sloe and elderberry, an almond-like nuance, along with juniper, rosemary and pine branches. On the palate it is silky and rather lean, the fine tannin builds alongside the fruit, then the spice takes over: undergrowth, cigar box and pepper on the finish.

Beetroot with Greek yoghurt and pistachio cream with dill, grilled wagyu flank steak with broad beans or oven-roasted leg of lamb with braised pumpkin and blackberry.

Limestone instead of slate, Pinot Noir instead of blockbuster grape varieties, 13.5% ABV: here Arribas favours structure and freshness over concentration.