Puligny-Montrachet "Les Climats" AOC 2024 1500ml Magnum

Chardonnay without make-up: dry, taut, saline, with precise citrus fruit and a fine chalky texture. Jacqueline Collardot and her son Matthieu put transparency above opulence and precision above breadth; no buttery toast, no clouds of vanilla.

Puligny-Montrachet on the Côte de Beaune. Domaine Thomas-Collardot farms 2.5 hectares right in the village, with plots in Les Enseignères, Les Nosroyes, and in the Hameau de Blagny (1er Cru). The vines have stayed within the family: Henri Chavy and Maurice Thomas, Jacqueline Collardot's grandfathers, once owned them; Pierre Thomas farmed them until 1992, after which they were leased to cousins. In 2010, Jacqueline Collardot took the vineyards back.

Pure Chardonnay. Since 2015 the family has vinified the wine itself; before that, the grapes went to négociants. Matthieu joined in 2018. A light touch guides the cellar work: gentle pressing, 24 hours of settling, ageing in used 228-litre pièces that have already held two to four wines. Village wines like this one spend sixteen months on fine lees, are only lightly filtered and left unfined, with sulphur additions largely avoided.

12.5% ABV, dry throughout. The acidity carries the wine, the texture stays finely grained, and the saline pull holds through the finish.

A 2.5-hectare estate producing around 10,000 bottles a year. Jacqueline Collardot trained at the CFPPA Beaune before her first own vintage. This bottling comes as a 1500 ml magnum, a format made for the long table.