Riesling Altenbourg, Vendanges Tardives 2019

The Riesling Altenbourg Vendanges Tardives 2019 from Domaine Albert Mann is a noble sweet Riesling from Alsace that binds its intense sweetness to a lively acidity. At 11.0% ABV it stays cool and filigree, with fine spice and compact minerality giving it structure. A wine that is only at the beginning of its development.

The gently sloping Altenbourg vineyard near Kientzheim lies at 225 to 250 metres, directly below the Grand Cru Furstentum. Limestone and sedimentary deposits define the soils, which are notably sandier here; the grapes ripen correspondingly slowly and often find ideal conditions for great Vendanges Tardives. Behind the wine stands Domaine Albert Mann in Wettolsheim, where Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé farm 25 hectares across nearly a hundred plots and six Grand Cru sites, biodynamically since 1997.

Pure Riesling, harvested late as Vendanges Tardives, the Alsatian late harvest. Maurice Barthelmé is responsible for the cellar, Jacky Barthelmé for the vineyards; on the steepest slopes they work with horses instead of tractors, so the soil is not compacted and the roots can reach deeper.

On the nose a fine bitterness and a basket of fresh fruit: lime, grapefruit, apricot and orange marmalade, with chalky notes emerging after longer aeration. On the palate, intense sweetness meets lively acidity, the wine remains precise and fresh; fine spice and compact minerality point to very good ageing potential.

With mini artichokes with blood orange chutney, anise and ginger, with caramelised pork fillet, sweet, sour and spicy, with pak choi, and with lime tart with meringue and mint.

Vendanges Tardives are not made every year at the estate, only when the grapes allow it. In 2012 the two brothers-in-law were named Winemakers of the Year.