Riesling Buntsandstein 2023

The Riesling Buntsandstein 2023 from Odinstal is a dry-vinified Riesling from high-altitude, wind-exposed parcels within the monopole vineyard Wachenheimer Odinstal. The nose is joyfully natural and multi-layered: long-lingering green tea, Nashi pear, white peach skin, along with light tobacco and green cardamom. A touch of volatility widens the picture further. This wine calls for a large glass.

Yellow variegated sandstone at a good 350 metres above the Mittelhaardt, in a hollow enclosed by ten hectares of mixed forest. Thanks to the faults of the Rhine Rift Valley, this monopole site holds four types of rock across five hectares: basalt, shell limestone, Keuper marl and variegated sandstone. There are no viticultural neighbours, and therefore no drift from spray treatments either. The altitude delays ripening by 20 days compared to the valley floor.

Riesling, harvested between 1 and 7 October 2023 from vines planted in 1978 and 1983. Spontaneous alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tank with around five percent whole clusters, followed by extended lees ageing until July 2025. 12.5% vol., 8.8 g/l residual sugar, 6.6 g/l total acidity, 41 mg/l total sulphur. 2,997 bottles of 0.75 litres were filled, along with magnums and other large formats.

A firm, aromatically austere opening with pronounced phenolics, followed by the spicy line of tobacco and chestnut shell. The ripe acidity brightens the palate and keeps the fruit on track: baked apple, a touch of nut. A subtle residual sweetness lends aromatic warmth to the finish.

Odinstal has farmed biodynamically since 2006 and has been Demeter-certified since 2013, with the logo featured on the label. In the cellar, estate manager Andreas Schumann follows a principle of non-intervention: spontaneous fermentation without temperature control, extended lees ageing, minimal use of sulphur. The variegated sandstone is part of his soil series within the monopole vineyard.