Riesling Furstentum Grand Cru 2019

Medium straw yellow in the glass, an opening that takes its time: the nose releases orange blossom and linden blossom, along with a touch of pineapple and lemon, but above all stony and slightly earthy notes. What remains reserved here only heightens anticipation for the first sip.

The grapes grow in Kientzheim's Furstentum, a Grand Cru vineyard on limestone and limestone scree, from 30-year-old vines. Domaine Albert Mann in Wettolsheim cultivates 25 hectares across six Grand Crus, spread over nearly a hundred parcels. Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé, brothers-in-law, converted to biodynamics in 1997; on the steepest plots, horses replace tractors so the soil isn't compacted and roots can reach deeper.

Pure Riesling, vinified dry, 14.0 % Vol. Jacky is responsible for the vineyards, Maurice for the cellar. Over the decades, the two have learned through observation, not by formula, which grape variety belongs on which soil. Antoine, the son, now works alongside them.

Lively and saline, with a light tannin that gives the wine grip and texture. Pineapple and ripe lemon meet bitter hints of orange peel and grapefruit. Silky ripe and piquant at once, the finish is long, intensely aromatic, juicy and full-bodied.

Cod loin with spring vegetables and Thai broth, grilled lobster with sweet Indian spices, or scallop carpaccio with kumquats.

30-year-old Riesling vines on limestone, biodynamic farming since 1997, and a winemaking couple named "Winemaker of the Year" in 2012.