Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos-Saint-Urbain Grand Cru 2017

A Riesling that openly reveals its volcanic origin: smoke, gunpowder and wet stone at first, then with air, cool ripe fruit and spicy, medicinal notes, almost a trace of iodine. Olivier Humbrecht counts 2017 among the three best vintages since the estate was founded in 1959.

The Grand Cru Rangen de Thann, above the small town of Thann, lies between 350 and 475 metres on volcanic tuff and greywacke, only lightly mixed with clay at the surface. At 68 degrees, it is Alsace's steepest vineyard site, 5.5 hectares in which the vines root deep. Cold draughts from the Thann valley, the proximity of peaks such as the Grand Ballon, and the steep slope delay bud break. That is why, in 2017, the Rangen was the estate's only terroir to escape almost entirely without frost damage to the harvest. The oldest vines are in their 55th year.

Pure Riesling. The Riesling harvest began on 11 September, finishing on the Rangen on 26 September, at 19 hectolitres per hectare. Fermentation took place over a few months; the wine shows 4.2 g/l residual sugar against 3.8 g acidity and a pH of 3.15, at 13.0% vol. At least six months of lees contact lend texture, and no wine leaves the cellar before one to two years of ageing.

First floral notes as if freshly picked, which over time evoke an infusion, alongside spice, salty stone, bright fruit concentrate and a distinct tannic structure. The acidity is present from the very first moment and draws the wine out long. Depth and power still lie behind a haze today.

Crispy stuffed pork belly, cooked with ginger and lemongrass, with Thai salad, shellfish terrine with crab and lobster bisque, and veal sweetbread ragout with mushrooms and Riesling beurre blanc.

Olivier Humbrecht, the first Frenchman to hold the title Master of Wine, converted the first five hectares to biodynamic farming as early as 1996; horses once again work the steepest vineyards. The Humbrecht family has been growing wine since 1620.