Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos-Saint-Urbain Grand Cru 2018

A Riesling that places its origin above its fruit. The nose is reserved yet holds one's attention for minutes on end: dark, cold, profound. Timeless and stylistically assured.

The Grand Cru Rangen lies in southern Alsace above Thann, at 350 to 475 metres, and with an average slope of 90 percent is Alsace's steepest vineyard site. Volcanic tuff and greywacke, mixed with only a little clay at the surface, force the vines to root deeply, tapping into mineral elements and, above all, a reliable water supply. The proximity of peaks such as the Grand Ballon and the draught from the Thur valley keep the start of the season cold, so budbreak occurs late. The oldest vines are 55 years old, planted at high density, and yields remain low.

Riesling, dry, 13.5% vol. Olivier Humbrecht, the first Frenchman to hold the title of Master of Wine, farms 42 hectares biodynamically; he converted the first five hectares in 1996. At least six months on the lees give the wines their texture, and no wine leaves the cellar before one to two years of ageing. Yields lie between 30 and 40 hectolitres per hectare.

The nose shows dried herbs such as marjoram, a touch of biscuit, grapefruit and distant stone fruit, but remains above all stony and cold. The palate continues in the same vein: a cool, mineral carpet with barely any fruit. On the finish the wine draws tight, compact and energetic, with long persistence. Power and elegance at once, carried by a phenomenal acidic drive that encourages the next sip rather than satiating.

Pan-seared turbot with beurre blanc and potato mousseline, veal fillet with morel cream and glazed swede, or pan-seared redfish with ginger sauce and braised fennel.

The Humbrecht family has been growing wine since 1620, and since 2019 Pierre Émile Humbrecht has joined as the eleventh generation. Horses are once again used in the steepest vineyards. The estate farms six Grand Cru sites across 11.5 hectares, including 5.5 hectares of volcanic rock in the Rangen de Thann.