Riesling Roche Calcaire 2022

A Riesling with a cool core: limestone is clearly present on the nose, joined by green apple, lemon and fresh ginger. Completely dry, leanly built, at 13.0% vol., with a freshness one wouldn't expect from the hot 2022 vintage.

The wine comes from Gueberschwihr, the birthplace of the Humbrecht family, and is blended from many small vineyard plots scattered around the village. What they share is limestone, often combined with marl and richer elements. Such soils withstand drought better: in 2022 the vines grew lightly and retained their acidity, with pH staying at the level of cooler vintages.

Pure Riesling. After a long fermentation, the wine remains on the lees with full contact until bottling and ferments through completely. Olivier Humbrecht farms 42 hectares biodynamically, having converted the first five hectares in 1996. Yields range from 30 to 40 hectolitres per hectare, and no wine leaves the cellar before one to two years of ageing.

Fruity, with lively acidity and a saline note; the mouth waters instantly, appetite is aroused. Complexity and nuance increase with further bottle ageing, and the ageing potential is very good.

Onion tart with caraway, gratinated oysters with Riesling sauce, or trout tartare with yoghurt, capers and gherkins.

Decant if possible and drink from large glasses. Limestone here produces tauter, leaner Rieslings with great ageing potential. The Humbrechts have been winegrowers since 1620, and horses are once again working the vineyards.