Riesling Roche Volcanique 2022

The Riesling Roche Volcanique 2022 from Domaine Zind-Humbrecht is a dry Alsatian white wine of straightforward style: cool fruit, taut acidity, a saline edge on the finish. At 12.5% alcohol, it stays light on its feet.

The name points to the bedrock, volcanic rock. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht farms 42 hectares in Alsace from its base in Turckheim, including six Grand Cru sites covering 11.5 hectares. Volcanic rock underlies the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann, 5.5 hectares above the small town of Thann, with a 68-degree slope the steepest vineyard site in Alsace. On the steepest plots, horses are once again at work, and yields stay between 30 and 40 hectolitres per hectare.

Pure Riesling. The wine rests on its lees for at least six months, which gives it texture, and no wine from the house leaves the cellar before one to two years of ageing. Olivier Humbrecht, the first Frenchman to hold the title of Master of Wine, converted the first five hectares to biodynamic farming in 1996.

On the nose, lime and grapefruit, green apple, white blossom and a smoky note. The attack stays lean, the acidity carries the juicy fruit, and the finish is dry, saline and long.

Pairs well with steamed fish with ginger, sashimi and steamed vegetables with sesame, as well as white meat in herb jus or flammekueche with bacon and onions.

The Humbrecht family has been growing wine since 1620, and since 2019 Pierre Émile Humbrecht has joined as the eleventh generation. Olivier Humbrecht describes biodynamics as a therapy for the vines, helping them forget stress.