Steiner Riesling 17-23

A dry Riesling that manages almost entirely without fruit. It shows delicate hints of nashi pear, lime zest and kaffir lime leaves, beneath which lie dried oregano, marjoram and mint, along with an association of sencha tea. It draws on a stony depth, feels self-contained and opens generously without ever abandoning its austerity.

The Riesling vines stand in the VDP.GROSSE LAGEN sites Ölberg, Hipping and Pettenthal on the Roter Hang near Nierstein in Rheinhessen. The slopes are steep to very steep, and the soil is the Rotliegend typical of this stretch of the Rhine. Part of the vines are trained in a pergola system and grow mainly in the shade.

Pure varietal Riesling, all work done by hand. After the harvest, the grapes are crushed by foot and cold-macerated for 24 hours; alcoholic and malolactic fermentation proceed spontaneously. The wine then matures under flor yeast in casks of 1200 and 5000 litres. The solera contains 8.5% each from 2017 to 2020, 25% from 2021, 25% from 2022 and 16% from 2023; cask ageing ranges from 12 to 72 months and averages at least 32 months in this bottling.

Structure and phenolics define the first sip, with plenty of grip and the finest tannin. Austere and forceful at the same time, with a pleasant bitter note that maintains the tension. The finish shows almost no fruit, but ethereal freshness. 11.0% vol.

Kai Schätzel has run the family winery since 2008; the family has farmed parcels on the Roter Hang since 1350 and vinifies in a wooden-cask cellar over 800 years old. VDP member since 2016, Demeter-certified since 2023.