Serral Del Vell Brut Nature 2018

Austere, cool and mineral. The Serral del Vell 2018 places stone and salt at its centre, deliberately holding back the fruit. An introverted, deep sparkling wine of great individuality, drawing its tension from clarity rather than fullness.

The single vineyard Serral del Vell lies at 255 to 280 metres below the Montserrat massif, which shelters the vineyards; the cooler microclimate lends finesse. Recaredo farms 50 hectares of its own vineyards biodynamically, on limestone soil on the right bank of the Bitlles. After years of drought, the vines have learned to regulate themselves and cope well even through difficult periods.

85% Xarel·lo and 15% Macabeu, aged classically and slowly. Four years and nine months is the minimum ageing period on the lees for this vintage. The entire bottle fermentation takes place under natural cork, and disgorgement is carried out by hand, without freezing. Brut Nature here means, literally, zero grams of dosage; the estate has bottled exclusively this way since 1924.

The nose opens clear and precise with dried herbs: hay, thyme, sage, tarragon, chervil, followed by a second, fresh layer of mint. The fruit stays restrained, lemon zest, bergamot, a touch of grilled pineapple. Defining notes are the salty, spicy lees character reminiscent of salted pastry and maritime tones of oyster and fresh seaweed. On the palate it is ramrod-straight and pure: limestone, chalk, a saline texture and a precise, present grip without heaviness. The acidity is fully integrated and carries the wine with quiet tension.

Ton Mata, grandson of the founder, co-founded Corpinnat in 2019 together with like-minded producers, a quality initiative for Spanish bottle fermentation using estate-grown grapes, hand harvesting and native grape varieties, and became its co-president.