Syrah Saint-Jean VdF 2020

A Syrah that doesn't make things easy for the drinker at first, and deserves attention precisely for that reason. The nose starts slightly reductive with smoke, peat, raw meat and undergrowth, before turning fruity: boysenberry, blackberry, plum. The fruit is ripe, yet feels cool, firm and crisp.

The Saint-Jean parcel lies at 350 metres on the north face of Mont Ventoux. The bedrock dates from the third period of the Oligocene, and the soils are stony clay. Altitude and north-facing exposure keep the grapes cool — hence this wine's firmness and freshness. Philippe Gimel farms his organically certified vineyards like gardens, with hedges, fruit trees and herbs between the vines, at yields of around 20 hectolitres per hectare.

Single-varietal Syrah. The grapes were hand-harvested on 3 September 2020, 90% destemmed, and fermented for twelve days in concrete vats. This was followed by eleven months in stainless steel and nine months of bottle ageing. Oak has no place in the Saint Jean du Barroux cellar, so the fruit remains unadorned. 2,037 bottles were produced.

The wine oscillates between demanding and charming. The demand lies in its youthful firmness, which loosens with decanting. The tannin is ripe and juicy, as is the fruit, while remaining crisp. The charm lies in the sweet extract, the ripe fruit core, the present yet silky acidity, and a fine yeasty note that swirls together with the fruit. A Syrah in the making, with great potential.

Entrecôte with anchovy butter and grilled vegetables, grilled tuna steaks with savory, thyme and fennel seeds, or roast pork with olive sauce.

Philippe Gimel gave up pharmacy, chose his sites together with geologist Claude Bourguignon, and lived in his cellar during the early years. For him, the winemaker is the guardian of the land, and Ecocert certification is the guarantee of his wines' purity.