Vieille Vigne du Levant Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2005

Purism without a cushion of sugar: Larmandier-Bernier bottles this Blanc de Blancs as Extra Brut, with a dosage of maximum 4 grams, often none at all. What remains is Chardonnay in its clearest form, angular, mineral and long, carrying the maturity of the 2005 vintage.

The vines stand on the Côte des Blancs, where the house farms 16 hectares across 17 parcels: Vertus as premier cru, plus the grand crus Cramant, Chouilly, Oger and Avize. The soil is pure chalk, the foundation of that vibrant minerality reminiscent of wet chalk. Pierre Larmandier banned herbicides in 1992 and converted fully to biodynamic farming in 1999, one of the first estates in Champagne to do so. His conviction: great champagnes are made in the vineyard, not in the cellar.

Pure Chardonnay from old vines, fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts, unfiltered and unfined. Ageing takes place in large oak casks from the Austrian cooperage Stockinger; the wood lends structure without pushing itself forward. 12.5% vol.

A taut drive, vibrant acidity, with lemon zest, white blossom and ripe apple, joined by brioche and almond from bottle ageing. The finish stays cool, saline and entirely free of sweetness.

Oysters and delicate seafood, pan-seared turbot with beurre blanc or aged Comté.

The pinnacle of the range, from old grand cru vines. The house even forgoes the foil capsule. Pierre Larmandier works alongside his wife Sophie and, since 2017, their son Arthur.