Barolo Via Nuova DOCG 2020 1500ml Magnum

A Barolo on the darker side of the aromatic spectrum. Elderberry, cassis and blackberry carry the fruit, plum joins in, while lilac and violet add a floral layer. Cubeb pepper and black pepper provide spice, dried marjoram, oregano and sage linger, cedarwood and mossy forest floor lend balsamic depth.

Via Nuova is a blend from seven vineyards across 3.7 hectares: Terlo, Paiagallo and Liste in Barolo, Ravera di Monforte and Mosconi in Monforte d'Alba, Gabutti and Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba. Average altitude of 340 metres, with exposures predominantly south to southeast. In 2020, spring arrived fifteen days earlier than the long-term average; June storms, September rain and cool nights then slowed this head start, resulting in a slow, even ripening with yields down 30 to 40 percent. Harvest began on 29 September.

Single-varietal Nebbiolo, fermented entirely in stainless steel tanks, with frequent pumping-over and punching-down. Ageing continues in small French oak barriques, lightly toasted, around 30 percent new oak, followed by a year of bottle ageing. Chiara Boschis vinifies all her Barolos using the same method, so that the origin takes centre stage rather than the winemaking technique. 14.5% ABV, dry.

The tannic structure, still youthful, is a touch angular and finds its counterpart in the acidity and cool minerality. This makes the fruit taste fresher and lighter, with sour cherry and raspberry lending finesse. The wine flows silkily, the spice stays restrained on the palate, and the tannin already turns finer after just a few minutes.

BBQ duck with salted cherries and savoy cabbage, braised lamb shoulder with roasted potatoes and rosemary jus, or oven-roasted white cabbage with béarnaise sauce and fried kale.

From the 2020 vintage, 14,826 bottles and 278 magnums were produced. Chiara Boschis has run E.Pira & Figli since 2010 together with her brother Giorgio; as the only woman among the Barolo Boys, she shortened maceration times and brought barriques into the cellar. In Cannubi, she was the first to convert to organic farming.