Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru AOC 2021

A Grand Cru without any effects: dark cherry and graphite, alongside spice and a hint of undergrowth. The tannin frame is broad yet remains silky. Slender yet deep in structure, the fruit clear and juicy, the finish saline. This Pinot Noir gains complexity with the years.

Bonnes-Mares lies on the border between Chambolle-Musigny and Morey-Saint-Denis. Domaine Bruno Clair, in Marsannay-la-Côte, holds 1.64 hectares here, expanded with further parcels in 2006, and farms a total of 27 hectares across eight villages of the Côte d'Or spanning 32 appellations. The estate's roots trace back to the Clair-Daü house, dissolved in 1985; Bruno Clair started afresh in 1986 with seven hectares.

Pure Pinot Noir. Fermentation starts spontaneously, extraction stays measured, with 20 to 50 percent whole clusters going into the vat. This is followed by 18 to 20 months in barrique, with the proportion of new oak ranging between 20 and 50 percent. Clarification happens through time, not cosmetics. 13.0% vol., dry.

Taut in structure, with a fine bitterness and a saline line that runs through the whole wine. The tannin is present but finely woven, the mineral pull lingering long.

Saddle of venison with juniper, duck breast with dark jus, coq au vin or a simply roasted Bresse chicken. Also porcini ragout, matured Époisses or Comté. Serve decanted, at around 16 degrees.

Cover cropping and forgoing herbicides have long been standard at the estate. In 2010 son Edouard joined, followed in 2018 by Margaux and Arthur; the sixth generation is increasing the share of whole clusters and lowering sulphur use. Allocations remain scarce.