Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru AOC 2022

A Burgundy without fanfare: clear, juicy fruit, fine austerity and a taut, saline line. Bonnes-Mares adds dark spice, graphite and a broad tannic structure. Slender yet deep, with a long mineral pull and the capacity to improve for years.

Domaine Bruno Clair, based in Marsannay-la-Côte, farms 27 hectares across eight villages of the Côte d'Or and bottles 32 appellations. In the Grand Cru vineyard of Bonnes-Mares in the Côte de Nuits, the estate owns 1.64 hectares, expanded with additional parcels in 2006. Its roots trace back to Clair-Daü, formed in 1919 from the marriage of Joseph Clair and Marguerite Daü and dissolved in 1985. Bruno Clair founded his own estate in 1986, initially with seven hectares. In the vineyard, cover crops and the renunciation of herbicides have long been standard practice.

Single-varietal Pinot Noir. Fermentation proceeds spontaneously, with 20 to 50 percent whole clusters in the vat and measured extraction. This is followed by 18 to 20 months in barriques, with new oak ranging from 20 to 50 percent. Time takes care of the clarification: the wine rests long enough to be bottled without cosmetic intervention.

Morello cherry and dark forest berries, followed by undergrowth, black pepper and graphite. The tannin is silky yet broad, the finish saline and long. 13.0% vol., dry.

The sixth generation is now at work at the estate: son Edouard joined in 2010 and oversees the vineyard and vinification, while Arthur has led cellar ageing since 2018 and Margaux handles shipping and logistics. They are increasing the proportion of whole clusters and reducing sulphur use. Demand is high and allocations are tight.