Chablis Clos Béru Monopole AOC 2020 1500ml Magnum

A Chardonnay of purist clarity: taut, chalky, saline, carried by pronounced acidity. It gains noticeably when decanted, and longer cellaring suits it well.

Clos Béru is Château de Béru's monopole vineyard in eastern Chablis: five hectares at 300 metres altitude, enclosed by a 13th-century wall. The slope faces south, isn't very steep but is very stony, with soil of typical Kimmeridgian limestone interspersed with fossilised oyster shells from a primordial sea roughly 150 million years ago. The monks of the time traced the boundaries along the terroir, which is why the Clos has the shape of a skewed trapezoid. It was never classified because the vineyard was leased out at the time; historically, it has always been regarded on a par with good Premier Cru sites.

Pure Chardonnay. Athénais de Béru farms the vineyard biodynamically, partly with horses, and the estate produces its own preparations. Fermentation is spontaneous with natural yeasts, aged in tonneaux during the first year, then in tank.

On the nose, citrus, candied grapefruit, quince, apricot and honeydew melon, joined by cool, stony notes, seaweed and dried oyster shell, grain, dry pastry, almonds, herbs and a hint of light tobacco; delicate porcini and brioche notes follow. On the palate the structure remains clear, with saline notes and acidity drawing the wine out in a long, linear finish, carried by powerful fullness.

Porcini mushrooms with sea salt, fennel and seaweed crackers, spiny lobster with lemongrass-almond milk-grapefruit-butter-shallot sauce and basmati rice, or puff pastry vol-au-vents with veal sweetbreads, oysters and morels.

The label carries the Demeter logo. Bottled as a Magnum of 1500 ml, 12.5% vol. Decant, serve not too cold and in a large glass; the wine continues to develop over several days once opened.