Comondor 2016

The Comondor 2016 is the flagship cuvée of the Nittnaus Anita & Hans estate in Gols, on the eastern shore of Lake Neusiedl, a red wine blend of Blaufränkisch and Merlot that demands time. Compact and spicy, still youthful and reserved despite its advanced maturity.

The family has cultivated vineyards in Burgenland since 1684, today farming 36 hectares between Gols and the Leithaberg region. Half the vineyards lie on the warm steppe soils around Gols, the other half near Jois in the cooler Leithaberg. There, limestone and schist give the Blaufränkisch particular minerality and elegance.

The impetus came from the 1990 harvest, which produced two outstanding wines: a Blaufränkisch from the Ungerberg and a Cabernet Sauvignon from the Edelgrund. This union gave rise to the Comondor. Since 1998, the full-bodied, elegant Merlot has led the blend. The estate has farmed biodynamically since 2007, with cover crops between the vine rows, compost instead of artificial fertiliser, and spontaneous fermentation. Ageing takes 18 to 22 months in 500-litre barrels, which lend wood notes without overpowering the wine.

On the nose, sloe, elderberry and blackberry, alongside green pepper, grilled rosemary, juniper and liquorice, underscored by dark chocolate, coffee and dark tobacco; a smoky minerality lies over everything. On the palate, a pronounced tannic structure, intense minerality and distinctly saline notes that immediately whet the appetite. The long finish shows that the ageing potential of this long-distance runner is far from exhausted. Those who want to drink it now should decant for at least two hours.

This wine calls for hearty dishes with concentrated sauces: hare with dark chocolate sauce and truffled celery croquettes, wild boar leg with red cabbage and nut strudel, or, for a vegetarian option, grilled green peppers with polenta wedges and rosemary butter.

The name belongs to a historic Hungarian herding dog breed, thoroughly Pannonian. In 2018, the Comondor was awarded the Vinaria Trophy. Hans Nittnaus describes his work with the phrase: "We don't make the wine, we accompany it."