Clos du Bourg demi-sec 2022

Here, off-dry means texture, not weight: the 18 grams of residual sugar sit beneath a firm arc of acidity. The nose is juicy, creamy and silky, with ripe apples, partly crisp, partly soft, alongside pears and quinces, slightly tart kumquats, a hint of smoke and white blossom.

The Clos du Bourg lies above the church of Vouvray: six hectares surrounded by an old stone wall that gives the site its name. It is mentioned as early as the 7th century, one of the oldest grand cru parcels in France. The flat soil of clay with flint and chalk inclusions rests on Turonian tuffeau limestone, which the vines' roots reach after just a metre. Gaston Huet considered this vineyard the greatest in Vouvray.

Pure Chenin Blanc. Harvest began on 8 September 2022, the second-earliest date in the estate's history, and stretched over six weeks; never before had the 24 harvesters picked for so long. Heatwaves and drought caused the grapes to ripen very unevenly, requiring numerous passes and meticulous sorting. Spontaneous fermentation, malolactic fermentation in only a few barrels, aged in used demi-muids.

A full, round, generous entry with abundant yellow fruit of apple and pear, ripe and clearly defined. The juiciness is tremendous, carried by the acidity through to a deep finish. This will continue to unfold over the coming years.

Salmon with za'atar and tahini, ceviche de aguaymanto, or a tart with Roquefort and goat's cheese.

Gaston Huet converted Domaine Huet to biodynamic farming as early as the late 1980s; the entire estate has been Demeter-certified since 1993. The wine is aged in deep rock-cut cellars at a constant temperature. Since 2020, Benjamin Joliveau, a Vouvray native, has been responsible for the wines.