Clos du Bourg demi-sec 2023

A delicate, finely drawn Chenin Blanc that shows unusually fruity for a Vouvray of this style. The 21 grams of residual sugar sit so close to the perception threshold that they read more as fullness than sweetness. 13.5% ABV.

The Clos du Bourg lies above the church of Vouvray: six hectares enclosed by an old stone wall, hence the name. The parcel is already mentioned in the 7th century and ranks among France's oldest grand cru vineyard sites. The flat soil consists of clay with flint and chalk inclusions over Turonian tuffeau limestone; the vines reach the tuffeau after just one metre.

Pure Chenin Blanc. In 2023, the spotted wing drosophila (Drosophila suzukii) infested Vouvray's vineyards heavily, forcing rigorous quality management: during the already numerous picking passes, every single berry was inspected, and at least a quarter of the harvest was removed. The sorted grapes were pressed and fermented spontaneously; malolactic fermentation took place only in exceptional cases and in individual barrels. Aged in used demi-muids. Responsibility lies with cellar master Benjamin Joliveau, who has led the winemaking since 2020.

On the nose, orange blossom, elderflower and blossom honey, candied orange zest, underpinned by austere kumquat, smoke and stone. The entry is full and round, with plenty of yellow fruit of quince and pear, carried by a long arc of acidity. Residual sugar, acidity, austere notes and juicy fruit stand in balance, the result has depth while remaining light.

Gaston Huet introduced biodynamics as early as the late 1980s; Domaine Huet has been fully Demeter-certified since 1993. Deep rock-cut cellars serve as ageing space: constant temperature, neutral vessels, time. Wines of this origin gain depth over decades.