Le Haut-Lieu sec 2022

Lightness and density in a single wine: the dry Le Haut-Lieu 2022 carries its complexity in a floral, drinkable way, with 5.6 grams of residual sugar and 13.5% alcohol by volume that goes unnoticed.

Le Haut-Lieu lies on the Vouvray plateau and is the vineyard with which the history of Domaine Huet began in 1928. The topsoil, locally called aubuis, consists of deep brown clay with a little flint and chalk; four metres below lies the bedrock of yellow tuffeau limestone.

Pure Chenin Blanc. Harvest began on 8 September 2022, the second-earliest date in the estate's history, and stretched over six weeks as heatwaves and drought caused the grapes to ripen very unevenly. 24 pickers harvested in numerous passes with meticulous sorting; the fruit was pressed and fermented spontaneously, with malolactic fermentation occurring only in individual barrels. The wine was aged in used demi-muids.

Silky, dense and sensuous, with elegant fruit of white-fleshed stone and pome fruit, plus wax and tobacco. On the nose, dog rose stands out, along with plenty of apple and pear with a touch of skin and a hint of hibiscus. The finish brings a piquant bitterness of citrus zest and herbs, hints of green walnuts, chalky minerality and a subtle salinity over an elegant line of acidity.

Langoustine with saffron beurre blanc and grapefruit segments, wild salmon sashimi or vegetable tempura with mild southern Japanese soy sauce.

Gaston Huet converted the estate to biodynamics in the late 1980s; it has been Demeter-certified since 1993. Since 2020, cellar master Benjamin Joliveau, a native of Vouvray, has been responsible for the wines; the deep rock-cut cellars with constant temperature serve as the ageing cellar. The 2022 is open and approachable now, though some bottles still belong in the cellar: this Chenin Blanc continues to evolve.