Le Haut-Lieu sec 2023

A dry Vouvray still somewhat reserved in its youth. Brioche and yeasty notes lead at first, and after sufficient contact with air, apple, quince, pear and lemon emerge, alongside linden blossom, hay, mushrooms, anise and cardamom. Pale golden yellow in the glass.

Le Haut-Lieu on the Première Côte is Domaine Huet's founding vineyard: nine hectares that Victor Huet bought in 1928 after giving up his Parisian bistro. The deep, limestone-rich clay lends the wine an approachable core and generous texture.

Pure Chenin Blanc, 13.0% ABV, vinified dry. Gaston Huet converted the estate to biodynamic farming in the late 1980s; it has been Demeter-certified since 1993. The deep rock-hewn cellars serve as the winery: constant temperature, neutral vessels, time. Since 2020, Benjamin Joliveau, a native of Vouvray, has been responsible for the wines.

Highly mineral and refreshing. The vibrant acidity is embedded in a creamy fruit core, with fine tannin lending grip. The finish is long, mineral and saline.

Pairs with scallops, pan-fried pikeperch, delicate poultry in cream sauce and aged Chaource.

Since 1928, Domaine Huet has stood for Chenin Blanc from three sites on the Première Côte: Le Haut-Lieu, Le Mont and Clos du Bourg. Depending on the vintage, these yield Sec, Demi-Sec and Moelleux styles, with the weather determining the presence of botrytis. The Le Haut-Lieu sec is already a pleasure to drink today and gains further complexity over decades.