Le Mont Moelleux 2017

The Le Mont Moelleux 2017 is a sweet Chenin Blanc from the single vineyard Le Mont in Vouvray, pale in colour and precisely drawn. Already the nose is lively and powerful, carrying the lightly smoky character typical of this site: yellow and green apples, a pineapple on the verge of ripeness, curry leaves, saffron, crushed stone, plus the touch of quince and honeywax typical of the variety.

Le Mont lies on the Première Côte, with little clay and plenty of stone. Gaston Huet secured the site for the domaine in 1957; its soils sit directly above the historic tuffeau cellars. Wines from here are intensely mineral and gain length and finesse with age.

Pure Chenin Blanc, 12.0% vol. Whether a vintage yields a Moelleux is decided by the weather, not the winemaker: botrytis cannot be planned for. Ageing takes place in the estate's deep rock-cut cellars, at constant temperature and in neutral vessels. Since 2020 cellar master Benjamin Joliveau, a native of Vouvray, has been responsible for the wines.

The 53 grams of sweetness never feel imposing, so precisely do the 4.9 grams of acidity keep them in balance. The structure is taut and vital, with fine Indian spices, bitter orange and stony notes. The long finish brings a sweetness reminiscent of honey and salted almonds.

Fish curry with coconut milk, ginger and coriander, caramelised scallops with morels and cream, or a quince tagine with basmati, ginger and cardamom.

Gaston Huet already converted to biodynamic farming in the late 1980s; since 1993 the entire estate has been Demeter-certified. A wine with the potential to last for decades.