On the hillsides of Elvillar, the
Maisulan estate has been farming old bush vines biodynamically since 2001, amid centuries-old olive trees. Led by Eva Fernández and Luis Ruiz de Viñaspre, Maisulan follows Masanobu Fukuoka's Japanese philosophy of "doing nothing". On 20 hectares, 45-year-old vines yield wines of great finesse that precisely reflect the limestone-marl terroir of the Sierra Cantabria. Tim Atkin calls the couple "thrilling producers in Rioja", and their interpretations of Graciano and Tempranillo show how vibrant Rioja Alavesa can taste.
Two madmen in love with their land
That is how Eva Fernández and Luis Ruiz de Viñaspre describe themselves, and you can taste this passion in every sip of their wines. When Luis left the family bodega in 2001 to go his own way, it marked the start of a
revolutionary journey in Rioja Alavesa. Inspired by Masanobu Fukuoka, the Japanese pioneer of "do-nothing farming", they developed a philosophy of minimal intervention. Their
Maisulan 12 embodies this attitude: charming and fruity, with lively acidity instead of heavy extraction.
Viñaspre: one village, two visions
The name gives away his origins: Luis Ruiz de Viñaspre comes from the hamlet of the same name, a neighbouring village of Elvillar. In this wind-battered upland of Rioja Alavesa,
Tentenublo winemaker Roberto Oliván also farms his plots. The two share the terroir, the
altitudes between 470 and 570 metres, and the shelter the Sierra Cantabria provides from Atlantic winds. Maisulan's 20 hectares are spread across the municipalities of Elvillar, Viñaspre and Moreda, all marked by limestone-marl and clay soils with good drainage.
Graciano from 45-year-old bush vines
83 per cent of the vineyard area is planted with
Tempranillo and ten per cent with the rare Graciano grape. The
Txabola Graciano shows the clear character of this variety:
purple fruit, striking spice, lively acidity. The vines are grown exclusively as bush vines, poda en vaso, with an average age of 45 years. Between the gnarled vines grow centuries-old olive trees, a living testimony to the Mediterranean history of this terroir.
Biodynamics with scientific precision
Since being certified as an
organic estate, Maisulan has also worked with biodynamic methods. Its collaboration with the Neiker research institute on soil erosion studies shows how scientific insight and respectful farming can go hand in hand. In the cellar,
two-year-old barriques are used only discreetly; the focus is on a clear, unextracted expression of fruit. The results are wines of crystalline precision that more than justify Tim Atkin's description of the couple as "thrilling producers".
