Sobremoro 2019

A dark-fruited Tempranillo made from ripe berries, with finesse and a cool undercurrent that makes it feel complete. Here, sensuality comes not from extraction but from clear fruit and acidity.

The Sobremoro vineyard lies at 580 metres in Viñaspre in Rioja Alavesa, on stony, iron-rich clay soil with limestone. The Sierra Cantabria shields this highland from the Atlantic winds. Maisulan farms 20 hectares in Elvillar, Viñaspre and Moreda, where the old bush vines grow among centuries-old olive trees.

Single-varietal Tempranillo from 45-year-old goblet-trained vines. After hand harvesting and sorting, the grapes were destemmed and fermented spontaneously over 20 days at a maximum of 25 °C. Ageing took place over 18 months in second-fill French barrique, keeping the oak influence restrained.

The oak is present, but comes across as elegant, supportive and deep: a warm, slightly cinnamon-tinged note reminiscent of nutmeg within the ripe red fruit. Underneath lie wild strawberry compote, redcurrants, raspberries and black cherries, accompanied by sweet tobacco, a touch of leather and dried herbs. The tannin still coats the palate with slight astringency, yet is already very fine-grained; the acidity attests to the right picking time on this high-altitude plot.

With peppers stuffed with rice, chickpeas and Moroccan spices, with overnight-roasted pork shoulder with cumin, smoked paprika and garlic, or with twelve-hour lamb with dates, cinnamon, almonds and couscous.

Eva Fernández and Luis Ruiz de Viñaspre have farmed biodynamically since 2001, following Masanobu Fukuoka's philosophy of non-intervention, meaning minimal intervention in the vineyard. On the topic of soil erosion, the winery collaborates with the Neiker research institute.