Integer Zibibbo Terre Siciliane IGP 2022

An orange wine built for drinkability: bone-dry, ramrod-straight, with plenty of edge and character. At 11.0% vol. it stays lean and leans fully on the fruit without losing any intensity. There's none of the heaviness that skin-contact fermentation can sometimes bring, nor any distracting oxidation.

Marco de Bartoli, a racing driver for ten years, returned in the 1970s to the family estate at Samperi near Marsala, sought out old solera barrels and reconstructed the historic cellar; in 1978 he filled his first barriques. Today his children run the estate: Renato oversees the vineyards and cellar at Samperi, Sebastiano tends the volcanic island of Pantelleria, and Giuseppina manages the administration. The family farms 30 hectares organically, at 3,500 vines per hectare, trained in traditional alberello or guyot. The origin is declared as Terre Siciliane IGP, with bottling taking place in Contrada Fornara Samperi near Marsala.

Zibibbo, fermented on the skins — hence the golden play of colour and the fine phenolic structure. The grapes are harvested exclusively by hand, using native yeasts.

It builds with intensity while staying juicy and lean. A fine phenolic structure and soft tannins give it grip, and the bitter notes carry the tension through. On the nose, ripe mirabelle plum, peach and apricot lead to overripe persimmon and on to blood orange, mandarin, orange blossom and candied orange peel; acacia, almond and apple blossom soften the edges, dried marjoram, oregano and sage along with turmeric and saffron set the spicy notes, while green walnut, pea shoots and artichoke bring a vegetal close. The finish highlights oriental spice, dried herbs and citrus fruit.

Between 1995 and 2000 the winery remained closed: the authorities disputed that a wine with 18 percent alcohol could be classified as wine. The estate is among the pioneers of Sicily's natural wine movement and relies uncompromisingly on indigenous grape varieties.