Mirgin Opus Paratge Qualificat Vallcirera Brut Nature 2021

A Cava of crystalline precision: cool, lean and demanding. The cool 2021 vintage lends it a lively, almost snappy freshness, and with no dosage it has nothing to hide.

The Vallcirera vineyard lies within the Serralada de Marina Natural Park, two kilometres from the Mediterranean and fifteen from Barcelona, with the vines facing south-east towards the sea. The soil is called Sauló: sandy granite, markedly acidic, almost free of limestone, with perfect drainage. Josep Maria and Cristina Pujol-Busquets bought the Can Genís estate in 1991, and a year later planted their first own vines at Vallcirera; today their daughters Mireia and Georgina run the winery. Vallcirera is Catalonia's only organic Paratge Qualificat.

Chardonnay and Xarel·lo, known here as Pansa Blanca, are vinified separately at a controlled 15 °C. The Chardonnay first matures in second-use oak barrels, the Xarel·lo in stainless steel tanks; after four months the two varieties are blended. This is followed by 42 months on the lees, sealed with natural cork rather than a crown cap. Disgorgement is done by hand, with a dosage of 0 g/l.

On the nose, first freshly grated almonds and almond blossom, then apple, mirabelle, nashi pear and a touch of orange, along with bergamot zest, oyster shell and savoury pastry. The attack is taut and racy, the mousse deliberately restrained; it contributes less to creaminess than to structure and energy. On the mid-palate, pressure arises not from concentration but from tension: the fruit stays understated, while saline minerality and fine herbal spice set the tone.

Alta Alella has farmed organically since day one and in 2006 produced Spain's first sulphite-free Cava. Yields remain below 6000 kg per hectare. Vallcirera is also the only Paratge Qualificat located within a protected nature reserve: bees, falcons and lizards live among the vine rows in the natural park.