NUMEN Muskateller 2021

A skin-fermented Muskateller where the grape variety remains clearly recognizable while gaining remarkable structure. Quite cloudy, pale golden yellow, 12.0% ABV, dry. With air, an evocative world of roses, nutmeg, and grapefruit zest opens up, complemented by bitter orange and lime zest; intriguingly followed by baked celeriac, fresh garden herbs, and wet, fired clay.

The vines grow on limestone-sandstone soils around Velm-Götzendorf in the southeastern Weinviertel. Johannes Zillinger farms 23 hectares there according to Demeter biodynamic standards, with sheep between the vine rows, chickens and Kunekune pigs aerating the soil, and home-grown herbs used for teas and plant extracts.

The grapes originate from an estate massal selection of Muscat à Petits Grains and were harvested at full physiological ripeness on 9 September 2021. This was followed by ten days of intracellular skin fermentation in kvevri and 14 months of aging on the lees in 600-litre tonneaux, incorporating 10% whole fresh berries. Bottled in February 2023 without fining, with 35 mg/L of sulphites; the pH is 3.36, and residual sugar is 1 gram.

Initially silky and grippy, with distinct tannins. The acidity feels subtle at first, then steadily gains presence. Floral notes and bright citrus fruit provide a classic Muscat profile, balanced by the pleasantly bitter nuances of zest. Dense yet slender at once, salty, taut, and long.

Grilled tuna with spicy watermelon and carrot-yuzu salad, fennel and citron salad with sumac, or squid stuffed with Swiss chard, fennel seeds, vine tomatoes, and anchovies.

NUMEN stands for the spirit of a place; the range is crafted with minimal intervention, spontaneously fermented, unfiltered, and unfined. The kvevri arrived in Velm-Götzendorf following a trip to Georgia in 2011. The label bears the Demeter logo.