Pam de Nas 2016

A Priorat that doesn't flaunt its power. The dark fruit sits beneath a smooth, silky texture, the mouthfeel stays cool, the minerality fine. Dense and intense, but never heavy.

The grapes grow around Gratallops, in the heart of the Priorat. There, Trossos del Priorat farms 21 hectares organically, spread across eight plots. The soil is Llicorella, that austere slate that crumbles into glittering flakes to the touch: it offers barely any nutrients, forcing the roots to dig deep in search of water, and releases the day's heat back to the vines at night. The cool nights preserve freshness in the berries.

Grenache and Carignan, the region's classic varieties, complemented by Cabernet Sauvignon. For this cuvée, the estate selects its oldest vines and best vineyards. In Lluís Escarmís's cellar, the natural slope of the terrain moves the grapes by gravity, avoiding the need for pumping. Aging takes place entirely in new French barriques. Dry, 14.5% vol.

Brilliant purple in the glass, deep and dense on the nose: blackcurrant, redcurrant, elderberry and blackberry on one side, green walnuts, black olives, cocoa butter, leather, acacia wood and juniper on the other. The finish brings almond blossom, roasted almonds and Mediterranean spices.

Charcoal-grilled roast beef with green beans, Papas Arrugadas and chimichurri, pan-seared red prawns with black rice and olive tapenade, or an Oriental-style lamb bake with tabbouleh salad.

Trossos del Priorat is a family project of the Vives family, founded in 2004 in Gratallops; trossos means "pieces" in Catalan. Winemaker Eva Escudé believes it's the quality of the grape that's decisive, not the hand of the cellar master.