Campill 2019

Campill 2019 is a dry Vernatsch from the northwest-facing steep slopes of Pranzegg above Bolzano, pale in colour and lean in structure at 12% ABV. The nose stays cool: red cherry, raspberry, violet, followed by dried herbs. Martin Gojer seeks drinkability and vivacity in his vineyards, and the Campill shows exactly that.

Pranzegg's vineyards lie on the Kohlerer Berg and on the Ritten, facing northwest, shaded by forest and swept by cool downslope winds. The soils are volcanic: porphyry, basalt and granite. Cold nights keep the acidity alert. The old pergola training shades the ground and brings ripeness without over-ripeness; on the narrow terraces, much of the work is still done by hand.

Vernatsch, South Tyrol's indigenous red grape, yields a pale, finely structured wine here. Since 2009, Martin and Marion have farmed just under four hectares biodynamically, using self-made preparations and no synthetic plant protection. In the cellar, the wine ferments spontaneously with wild yeasts and ages in concrete tanks and used oak or chestnut barrels, often for two to three years on full lees. No fining, no filtration, and only a minimal addition of sulphur before bottling.

Lean and juicy, with lively acidity and silky tannins. Crisp red cherry and a cool mineral note carry through to the dry finish.

The label reads Ca___l: the historic vineyard name may not be used unless the wine contains Cabernet varieties, so Martin Gojer writes it with a gap. Among the pergola vines graze eight Ouessant dwarf sheep from Brittany, which keep the grass short and fertilise naturally.