Le Grand Rouge de Revelette IGP 2020

An austere, seriously built red wine from the northern Provence that demands time. Spicy and racy, with firm fruit and taut tannin – nothing pushes to the fore, everything is built to last.

Château Revelette lies near Jouques, about 30 kilometres north of Aix-en-Provence, sheltered by the Montagne Sainte-Victoire. The 30 hectares are spread across 17 parcels between 330 and 400 metres in altitude, surrounded by 170 hectares of forest. At night, cold Alpine air flows down into the valley; the large day-night temperature swings slow ripening and lend the wine freshness. Peter Fischer, who grew up in Baden-Baden and trained in Davis, took over the estate in 1985.

The blend consists of 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 10% Carignan and 6% Pinot Noir. Fermentation lasted around 30 days, with ageing for twelve months in one- to four-year-old barriques and 10% in foudre. Fischer has farmed organically since 1990 and biodynamically since 2011, applying nettle and eggshell preparations according to the lunar calendar.

On the nose, blackberry, blueberry and cherry, fleshy and juicy, overlaid with a top note of mint and violet blossom, plus a touch of olive tapenade. On the palate, austere stone and herb notes and firm tannin dominate, the fruit recalling sloe and reconnecting with the tapenade. Decanting and air reveal a sweet fruit core.

Leg of lamb with olives and herbs of Provence, sou fassum, the stuffed cabbage with sausage meat and smoked bacon, or, for a vegetarian option, qorme bamia, okra in a turmeric-tomato sauce.

The 6% share of Pinot Noir in a Provençal blend is a distinctive feature of this high-altitude site. Hugo and Clara, the next generation, are now also working on the estate.