Riesling Jungfer Grosses Gewächs 2023

A dry-styled Riesling from the Jungfer vineyard that shows the variety with crystalline precision: reductive, cool and transparent, entirely without weight. What carries this wine is less fruit than inner tension.

The Jungfer sits at 200 metres above sea level east of Hallgarten, facing southeast, with a 12% slope. The subsoil consists of calcareous terraced sediments, threaded with slate and quartz. Wide temperature swings between day and night lay the foundation for the wine's vibrant tension. The estate in Oestrich-Winkel has existed since 1786 and is run in its twelfth generation by Peter Bernhard and Viktoria; the 21 hectares have been farmed according to Demeter principles since 2009.

Pure Riesling. The whole clusters are pressed gently and slowly, and fermentation proceeds spontaneously with natural yeasts. This is followed by sixteen months on full lees in a traditional large oak cask. 3.6 g/l residual sugar meets 7.6 g/l acidity, at 12.5% ABV.

The nose stays stony and reserved, with fruit appearing only in flashes: lime and lemon zest, a touch of kaffir lime, grapefruit flesh, a hint of white peach. More pronounced are the herbal notes: lemon balm, chervil, lemongrass and coriander, which develop towards fennel seed and lend a slightly aniseed, darkly mineral note. On the palate, a razor-sharp, linear acidity runs through the wine, creating precise astringency, joined by a distinctive note of red and yellow apple skin that binds phenolics, acidity and fruit in equal measure. The finish is herb-fresh, vibrant and long.

Ceviche with lime and coriander, steamed turbot, green asparagus with hollandaise sauce, Thai curry with lemongrass, as well as sushi and smoked trout.

The Demeter logo appears on the label. The same restraint applies in the cellar as in the vineyard: no fining, minimal use of sulphur, no heavy oak treatment.