Saint-Véran "La Combe DesRoches" Zen AOC 2023

A calm, coolly delineated Chardonnay from the southern Burgundy, showing spice and fruit in equal measure. Pale straw yellow with green reflections, vinified dry, conceived from the outset as a wine for the table.

The roughly 1.5-hectare parcel lies at the foot of the Roche de Vergisson on limestone and clay soil and has belonged to the estate since 2016. The north-facing slope offers a cool exposure that nonetheless allows the grapes to ripen harmoniously. La Soufrandière is based in Vinzelles, founded in 1947 by Jules Bret with one hectare in the Clos de Grand-Père, and run since 2000 by his grandsons Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume Bret.

Chardonnay from vines averaging 20 to 25 years old, farmed organically and biodynamically. Whole-cluster pressing, spontaneous fermentation, followed by around eleven months of ageing: roughly 80 percent in stainless steel tank, 20 percent in used oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.

On the nose, waxy yellow apples and pear skins, green hazelnuts, salted butter toast and beeswax, underpinned by a minerality reminiscent of wet chalk. On the palate, the interplay of fruit and spice continues: extract-rich, juicy fruit, a fresh, broad arc of acidity, along with fine phenolics along the sides of the tongue lending a savoury edge. Drinks with lightness and verve.

Grilled pike-perch, chicken in lemon butter, risotto with green asparagus, or medium-aged Comté.

The estate has been certified organic by Ecocert since 2003 and has carried the Demeter seal since 2006, its logo appearing on the label. Parts of the vineyards are worked with horses to reduce soil compaction. A fine introduction to the Bret brothers' range.