Sitta Doliola 2018

The Sitta Doliola 2018 is an orange wine made from 100% Albariño, fermented in clay vessels by Attis Bodegas y Viñedos in the Val do Salnés. Power and grip define it: dry, assertive, with a meaty texture that calls for intense, aromatic cuisine. 13.0% vol.

Val do Salnés, the heart of Rías Baixas. The five hectares of brothers Robustiano and Baldomero Fariña are spread across small parcels between 100 and 400 metres of altitude, with vines rooted in sandy granite soils. The westward orientation towards the Atlantic brings cool afternoon breezes, slow ripening and crisp acidity; the traditional pergola training protects the grapes from the sun and ventilates them in this rain-rich region.

Hand-harvested in 15-kg crates, selected, fully destemmed. Spontaneous fermentation in clay vessels, with part of the grapes macerating in 380-litre vessels, Latin doliola. This is followed by spontaneous malolactic fermentation and filtration. The Sitta series follows Georgian tradition: macerated white wines with skin contact. Limited to 850 bottles.

Intense amber with orange hues. On the nose, ripe orange flesh, orange zest and orange marmalade, malt sweets, wild herbs in honey such as rosemary, thyme and eucalyptus, along with dried apple peel, dried apricots and spices: distinctly turmeric, then cinnamon and clove. On the palate it grips, the opulent fruit mingling with fine bitterness and a saline finish, plenty of power alongside drinkability and finesse. Very good ageing potential.

Turmeric risotto with dried lime leaves and grilled peach, grilled octopus with pak choi, pickled kumquats and teriyaki sauce, or chateaubriand with orange-tarragon butter, blood orange and beetroot.

The Fariña brothers carry on the family legacy in its third generation, under their own name since 2000; in 2011 the winery on Monte Penaguda, carved into the granite rock, was added. They are advised by oenologist Jean-François Hébrard. This wine should absolutely be decanted and served not too cold in a large glass.