Volnay "Les Famines" AOC 2022

An elegantly medium-bodied Pinot Noir with a dark, slightly smoky character. The nose needs air to open up, then becomes layered: dark fruit alongside crisp red berry fruit and bergamot, underscored by wet earth, light tobacco and mild spices.

The Les Famines vineyard lies at the foot of the Volnay hillside, east-facing, at 230 metres above sea level, and covers 0.18 hectares. The deep, stony soils of red clay and limestone are lean; it is probably this meagre terroir, which never yielded generous crops, that gave the site its name. Clos du Moulin aux Moines in Auxey-Duresses was founded in 962 by monks of the Abbey of Cluny. Since 2008, Willy Roulendes has run the estate and converted the entire 16 hectares to biodynamic farming; the vineyard is worked by hand or with horses.

Pinot Noir, planted in 1996 and 2001 at 10,000 vines per hectare. Hand-harvested, then sorted again on the sorting table. Fermentation and maceration last 15 to 20 days in large wooden vats, with 30 to 70 percent whole berries depending on the vintage, spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts and daily pump-overs. After pressing, the wine matures for 12 months in used oak barrels and is bottled unfined and unfiltered, with minimal sulphur addition.

The dark fruit is fleshy and firm, the velvety tannins are tightly woven and lend a savoury, aromatic depth. Ripe acidity keeps the wine in motion without ever dominating it. The finish brings liquorice root, dark tobacco and liquorice. 12.5% vol., dry.

The wines age in cellars dating from the 11th and 15th centuries. New oak is now used only rarely, so that the clear, floral and fruity aromas remain in the foreground. The label states biodynamic farming.