82/16 Extra Brut, Blanc de Blancs Chouilly Grand Cru

A Blanc de Blancs of finesse and silkiness. Although the oldest component was 36 years old at the time of bottling, this Champagne feels fresh and vibrant; maturity and tension are perfectly balanced.

Chouilly is the northernmost Grand Cru of the Côte des Blancs. The Chardonnay vines there are rooted deep in belemnite chalk and average 45 years of age. Jean-Pierre and Caroline Vazart run the house in its third generation, based at the red brick building dating from 1865.

Pure Chardonnay. The base wine fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and underwent malolactic fermentation. It comes exclusively from the Réserve perpétuelle, a solera begun in 1982, from which 40 percent was drawn off and replenished each year. The last replenishment took place in 2016, when the base wine was drawn; hence the name 82/16. Bottled in May 2018, disgorged in July 2022 with zero dosage.

On the nose, vanilla crescent biscuits and fruit bread, almond cream and linden blossom, alongside lemon curd and yuzu. Then ripe stone fruit, red berries and citrus zest over pronounced autolytic notes, carried by crisp acidity and a fine mousse. The finish brings vanilla, mocha and lightly toasted nuts.

With oysters, ceviche and sole, with delicate poultry or Comté. Roasted cauliflower and a lemon risotto also pair well.

1,690 bottles. The Réserve perpétuelle no longer exists: in 2020 the estate converted to organic viticulture and gave up the solera, as its guidelines do not permit blending with conventionally produced reserve wines. This bottling thus captures nearly four decades of the house's history.