AUSTRAL, Brut Nature 2022

The AUSTRAL Brut Nature 2022 from Clandestin is a Blanc de Noirs made from pure Pinot Noir, prioritising structure and tension over fruit. The nose is markedly autolysis-driven: salt, butter, toast and hazelnut, along with sourdough crust and brioche. The Pinot fruit only emerges behind that, with redcurrant, raspberry, blood orange and honeycomb, underpinned by chalky minerality.

The grapes grow on south-facing parcels in the Côte des Bar in the Aube, on clay-limestone soils with pronounced Kimmeridgian bands, the region's second geological layer. They are farmed organically to biodynamically. Clandestin is a micro-négoce based in Landreville: Benoît Doussot, born in Nuits-Saint-Georges and trained in Beaune, buys exclusively organically grown grapes from eleven partner winegrowers.

100 percent Pinot Noir, hand-harvested and spontaneously fermented with the vineyard's own wild yeasts. Ageing lasts around 10 to 12 months in demi-muids, followed by roughly 15 months on the lees after bottle fermentation. It is bottled without dosage, as a Brut Nature.

Dry on entry, with generosity and fine extract. The mousse sparkles, and the texture is full-bodied while retaining a slightly grippy edge. Autolysis and terroir carry the structure, while mineral-saline notes and a lively, well-integrated acidity keep the expansive expression precisely focused. The finish stays long, salty and yeasty, ending on orange zest and bitter grapefruit.

With roast Bresse chicken with morel sauce, seared mackerel, duck ballotine or ripe Chaource.

A cuvée from the Les Iconiques series. Doussot supports his winegrowers in converting to organic farming and pays fair prices; his winery operates on two levels by gravity, without pumps. 12.0% ABV.