Riesling Frauenberg GG 2022

The Riesling Frauenberg GG 2022 by Battenfeld-Spanier is a dry Grosses Gewächs from Rheinhessen whose stature is drawn from finesse. Charm and creaminess carry the nose, threaded through with a subtly smoky note. Expression was never the essence of the Frauenberg — finesse was.

The Frauenberg lies in the southern Wonnegau, north of Hohen-Sülzen towards Flörsheim, at altitudes of up to 280 metres and slopes of up to 40%. Limestone scree over pure limestone bedrock forces the vines into deep root work, while the exposed site demands both heat and cool wind of them. The vineyard first appears in 1290 as »an frauwenhalten«, then owned by a convent of nuns.

Pure Riesling. The grapes were hand-harvested and strictly selected, spontaneously fermented and aged in large oval and double oval casks. Battenfeld-Spanier has worked biodynamically since 2005, using preparations 500 and 501 and without fining agents. 12.5% vol.

Fruit rarely takes centre stage; instead lemon, lemon balm and lemongrass come forward. On the palate, a restrained sweetness of extract in yellow- and white-fleshed fruit, followed by stony spice, piquant herbal notes and a firm extract with fine phenolics. This balance will carry the wine for decades, even though it is still evolving now.

Smoked salmon in puff pastry with fried kale, lukewarm char on smoked mashed potatoes with tarragon butter, or guinea fowl with chickpeas, chorizo, Espelette pepper and almonds.

Extract and tannin feel polished and smooth, like a semi-precious stone. The limestone of the Wonnegau gives this Riesling the saline precision that defines the estate's signature style.