Riesling Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott GG 2022

This dry Grosses Gewächs shows Riesling in a cool, saline register: compact, taut, youthfully closed and built for long ageing.

The Schwarze Herrgott lies at the start of the Zellertal basin, where pure limestone bedrock dominates. A steep, narrow fault edge shields the site from rain and from the full intensity of sunlight. The border between Rheinhessen and northern Palatinate runs right through the middle of the vineyard. Around 700 AD, the Irish monk Philipp von Zell founded a monastery near Zell and planted his mass-wine vineyard here, a quarter of an hour's walk away; the cross the monks erected on the site weathered black over time, giving the vineyard its name.

Riesling, dry, 12.5% vol. Battenfeld-Spanier has farmed biodynamically since 2005: preparations 500 and 501, with lunar phases setting the rhythm of vineyard work. In the cellar, spontaneous fermentation in large wooden casks and steel tanks, minimal use of sulphur, no fining agents. On limestone, the Riesling gains a taut, cool texture with saline precision; in the Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott, this style reaches its peak.

After a few hours in the decanter, the aroma opens up: lemon, grapefruit, green apple, verbena, mint, seashell, along with a hint of soy sauce and roasted crustacean shell. On the palate the wine grips and leaves a trace reminiscent of lemon tossed in salt. Coolness, elegance and vibrant freshness define it, with citrus fruit and fresh herbs lingering into a long, umami-rich finish.

Ramen noodles with vegetables and Thai curry sauce, mackerel with cucumber, mustard seeds, basil and ham crisps, and almond-crusted prawns with preserved lemon sauce and pumpkin.

Thanks to written records, the Schwarze Herrgott is one of the oldest documented winegrowing sites. If possible, decant for several hours and taste from large glasses.