Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru "Les Bondues" AOC 2023

A red Premier Cru from Chassagne-Montrachet, and thus the rarer side of a commune best known for its white wines. The wine favours finesse over power: red cherry, raspberry, silky tannins, cool precision.

Domaine Darviot-Perrin is based in Monthélie in the Côte de Beaune, where the Darviot family has owned its parcels since the 19th century. Eleven hectares are now spread across Monthélie, Volnay, Meursault and Chassagne-Montrachet, including seven Premier Cru sites. "Les Bondues" is one of them.

Pure Pinot Noir, made dry. Pierre-Antonin Darviot took over the estate in 2019 at the age of 25, after studying oenology in Beaune and working in the Loire and New Zealand, and converted it to biodynamic farming. In the cellar he works with up to 100% whole-cluster fermentation; the stems contribute floral notes and fine-grained tannins. Aged in used barrels, unfined, unfiltered, with minimal use of sulphur.

Juicy red fruit, cherry and raspberry, alongside violet and a touch of undergrowth. The acidity carries the wine, the tannins are finely woven, and the finish stays mineral and long. Already approachable in its youth, with reserves for a few more years in bottle.

Duck breast with cherries, coq au vin, guinea fowl with mushrooms. Also beef carpaccio or lentils with smoked bacon, and, with a little more bottle age, a piece of Époisses.

Ten generations of family history in a single village, farmed biodynamically since Pierre-Antonin Darviot took over. 750 ml, 13.5% vol., dry.