Selma 2018

Selma 2018 is a dry white wine at 13.0% vol., drawing its impact from salt, acidity and phenolics rather than sheer body. Cool and multi-layered, with a youthfulness built for years in the cellar.

The wine grows in the El Plà de Manlleu vineyard in Alt Penedès, Ester Nin's home ground. One hectare at 750 metres of altitude, the vines standing on clay and limestone. This altitude keeps acidity and fruit cool.

Ester Nin and Carles Ortiz planted Roussanne, Marsanne, Chenin Blanc and Parellada Montonegra here as a field blend. After harvest, the grapes are pressed slowly, fermented and aged in barrique. This leaves fine, creamy vanilla notes and a touch of butter, which only emerge with exposure to oxygen.

In the glass, a sparkling, intense golden yellow. On the nose, ripe pear, grapefruit, orange zest and banana peel, along with white blossom, ginger, anise, dried meadow flowers and plenty of iodine-tinged, smoky spice. The palate stays fresh: juicy fruit, a pronounced salinity, invigorating acidity and phenolics that lend depth. Those drinking it now should decant it and serve it in large glasses; a day open in the fridge also does it good.

Turbot with seaweed flakes, cuttlefish beurre blanc and green asparagus, pheasant with champagne cabbage, chestnuts and Iberico ham, or roasted porcini and hazelnuts on an artichoke base with Arbequina olive oil.

Familia Nin Ortiz has worked biodynamically since their first shared vintage in 2008, "Biodynamic since day one" is printed on every cork. The estate is a member of La Renaissance des Appellations, the association of biodynamic producers founded by Nicolas Joly. The wines ferment spontaneously, without fining or filtration.