Terra Vermella 2018

A purist, cool white wine at 12.0% ABV that puts acidity and salinity ahead of body: tension rather than weight, with a smoky thread running through the whole wine.

The grapes come from a single hectare at 550 metres in the Pla de Manlleu, in the Alt-Penedès. The red clay soil gives the wine its name: terra vermella. The vineyard is 37 years old and is farmed by its owner, Jaume Nin Llort, who belongs to Ester Nin's family.

Parellada Montonegra, a pink-skinned mutation of Parellada discovered in this vineyard by Ester Nin and Carles Ortiz. Parellada delivers high acidity at moderate alcohol levels, which is why it is important in Cava. The grapes are lightly crushed, left to sit for 24 hours, slowly pressed and spontaneously fermented in a 300-litre barrel, in which the wine is also aged. Despite the coloured berry skins and the time on skins, the wine stays pale; the warm 2018 vintage produced 12.0% ABV with 6.5 grams of acidity and a pH of 2.8.

On the nose, wild herbs, grapefruit, salted almond and oyster shell, along with a smoky flint note. On the palate, juicy yellow fruit, a smoky undertone and vibrant acidity, cool and powerful, with a saline finish.

Salt-crust kohlrabi with olive oil and truffle, grilled red mullet with fennel cream, orange and anise, or veal wrapped in Iberico ham, smoked, with tarragon sauce and cauliflower-lemon cream.

Ester Nin and Carles Ortiz farm biodynamically; every cork carries the phrase Biodynamic since day one. The estate is a member of La Renaissance des Appellations, the association of biodynamic producers founded by Nicolas Joly. Best decanted and served not too cold, from large glasses.