Il Passito di Corzano IGT 2008 375ml

A nobly sweet passito from Tuscany, amber in colour, dense yet lively. It is not sugar that guides this wine, but acidity.

The Fattoria Corzano e Paterno is located near San Pancrazio, in the municipality of San Casciano. The vines grow at 300 metres above sea level on limestone-clay soils rich in pebbles, relics of a former seabed. Of 140 hectares, only 17 are planted with vines; the rest belongs to 4,000 olive trees, pastureland and 600 sheep of Sardinian breed, which graze between the olive trees and vines, naturally fertilising the soil. The Gelpke-Goldschmidt family has farmed the mixed estate organically for over 50 years.

Trebbiano and Malvasia, as selected whole bunches hung to dry in the vinsantaia. After around three months, the shrivelled berries are sorted again and gently pressed for 24 hours. The must clarifies for seven days before going onto its mother yeast in traditional caratelli of 50 to 100 litres. The barrels are sealed and rest for 17 years without any intervention in the well-ventilated vinsantaia.

On the nose, dried figs, dates, raisins and pale mulberries, alongside hazelnut wafer, orange zest, toasted almonds and a spoonful of salted caramel; toffee and tobacco lend spice, a trace of volatile acidity gives tension. On the palate, silky viscosity and a soft, silky nuttiness, saline contours, with the oils of orange, bitter orange and lemon. The finish carries exceptional length.

This wine may not be called Vin Santo: the 1995 DOC Vin Santo del Chianti regulation requires a minimum alcohol content that it falls short of. It is therefore bottled as IGT Passito, in 375-millilitre bottles, the product of 17 years of undisturbed barrel ageing.