A Filipino-American businessman from New York revolutionises Tokaj whilst simultaneously owning a Loire legend – this story sounds too extraordinary to be true. The winery
Királyudvar has embodied this remarkable connection between two worlds of naturally sweet wines since 1997. Anthony Hwang transformed the former Habsburg court supplier using biodynamic methods and international expertise into one of the most ambitious Tokaj producers. From bone-dry Furmint to the region's first Pezsgő and the legendary Eszencia, wines of uncompromising quality are crafted here. István Szepsy and today Szabolcs Juhász shape the winemaking across 75 hectares of premier vineyard sites.
The liaison between the Loire and Tokaj
Anthony Hwang's wine empire unites two icons of the sweet wine world: the Loire with its
Domaine Huet and Tokaj with Királyudvar. This unique constellation allows a transfer of knowledge that benefits both regions.
Noël Pinguet, winemaker at Huet, guided the conversion to biodynamics in Tokaj, while
Jean-Bernard Berthomé later maintained the link between the two estates. The Tokaji Pezsgő "Henye" Brut Nature 2018 was directly inspired by Huet's pétillant tradition – a world first in Tokaj.
Terroir expression at the highest level
The
Grand Cru sites Lapis and Henye form the heart of the 75 hectares, complemented by Percze, Becsek, Danczka and Nyulászó. Szabolcs Juhász, winemaker in charge since 2009 and a pupil of the Tokaj legend Zoltán Demeter, interprets these exceptional terroirs with biodynamic methods. The
Furmint grape shows its full range here – from
mineral Sec to the concentrated Aszú component. The
Tokaji Furmint Demi-Sec 2022 represents the off-dry middle ground of this great variety, with ripe pear, quince and aniseed, a salty vein and fine, lively acidity.
From the Aszú renaissance to Eszencia perfection
István Szepsy, co-founder and first winemaker, laid the foundations for Királyudvar's Aszú renaissance. The
6 Puttonyos system is applied here with scientific precision and consummate craftsmanship. The
Tokaji 6 Puttonyos Aszú 2012 embodies this philosophy in its most accomplished form. At the top of the hierarchy stands the
Eszencia – the legendary nectar made from the free-run juice of botrytised berries, which needs decades to mature.
Biodynamic pioneering since 2008
Since 2008, Királyudvar has worked entirely biodynamically – a pioneering role in Tokaj. The conversion was not about following a trend but grew out of the conviction that only living soils can fully express the complexity of these unique terroirs.
Preparations and lunar cycles set the rhythm of the work in vineyard and cellar. The result is wines of exceptional vitality and longevity that bring together the historic legacy of the royal court and contemporary winemaking.
