"La Carbonnode" Zen VdF 2023

A Chardonnay that speaks through texture. Austere, invigorating tannin lines the mouth and, alongside moderate acidity, gives the wine its freshness, much like a long-steeped tea. Dry, 13.0% ABV.

La Soufrandière is based in Vinzelles, in southern Burgundy. In 1947 Jules Bret acquired one hectare in the Clos de Grand-Père; since 2000 the estate has been run by his grandsons Jean-Philippe and Jean-Guillaume Bret, joined by Marc-Antoine Bret in 2010. Twelve hectares lie across Pouilly-Vinzelles, Pouilly-Fuissé and Saint-Véran on limestone soils with pockets of clay and loam; some vines are over 80 years old. Certain plots are worked with horses to avoid compacting the soil.

Chardonnay from the La Bonnode plot, which gives the wine its name. The whole clusters ferment for around nine days under carbonic maceration, followed by gentle pressing, then spontaneous fermentation and ageing in used 228-litre barrels. No sulphur is added during fermentation or ageing; only a minimal 24 mg/l is added at unfiltered bottling. 1,780 bottles were produced.

The fruit is shot through with spice: bitter orange, bergamot and dried orange peel meet pale tobacco, preserved ginger and delicate wood notes, alongside waxy-skinned apples and honeycomb. On the palate, orange takes the lead, joined by tobacco and mace. The finish is long, sweeping and cool. With aeration, the picture keeps shifting.

A tannic Chardonnay, the result of carbonic fermentation. La Soufrandière has been certified organic by Ecocert since 2003 and biodynamic under Demeter since 2006, with the Demeter logo appearing on the label.