"La Coma d'en Romeu" Velles Vinyes 2021

A Priorat with both weight and agility: broad and spicy on the palate, yet cool, lively and light-footed. The energy in this wine comes from the slate, not from extraction.

La Coma d'en Romeu is the second flagship vineyard of Ester Nin and Carles Ortiz, located on the terraced, steep slopes around Porrera. The soil is Llicorella, the region's famous black slate. The estate's vineyards climb to 700 metres, among the highest in Priorat. Machinery cannot operate on this terrain; ploughing is done with mules, a method no one in Porrera had practised since the 1960s until Carles Ortiz revived it.

Pure Garnacha from 70-year-old vines, farmed biodynamically according to strict principles. Fermentation happens spontaneously in foudres, demi-muids or amphorae, with no fining or filtration. Ester Nin studied oenology in Tarragona and gained her first experience at Clos Erasmus; Carles Ortiz brought 18 hectares of organically farmed vineyards to the partnership. The two have worked together since 2008.

Dark fruit of blackberry and black cherry, joined by juniper, dried thyme and black pepper. The tannin is fine-grained and present, the acidity carries the wine, and beneath it all lies a saline-tinged slate minerality. The finish stays spicy and earthy. Despite 14.0% ABV, nothing feels heavy.

Pairs beautifully with braised leg of lamb with rosemary, herbed wild boar ragù and beef fillet with mushrooms. For a vegetarian option, try roasted aubergine with black olives; for cheese, a mature Manchego.

"Biodynamic since day one" is printed on every cork from the estate. Familia Nin Ortiz is one of the few Spanish wineries to belong to La Renaissance des Appellations, the association of leading biodynamic producers founded by Nicolas Joly.