Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben 2021

A red wine of immense density that carries its power without loudness. In Lutzmannsburg, Roland Velich pursues cool elegance rather than warm opulence, and the 2021 vintage delivers precisely that: concentrated, clearly structured, and with a vibrant freshness that will carry the wine for years to come.

The vines are rooted in Lutzmannsburg in Burgenland on a prehistoric volcano. The iron-rich soils impart a distinctive mineral vein to the Blaufränkisch. The single vineyards vary considerably, from the steep, calcareous Kirchberg and the Schwemmer to the clay-rich Maissner plateau. Many of the vines are 50 to 110 years old, originating from an era when Blaufränkisch was not yet bred for yield. They produce minuscule crops, yielding exceptionally concentrated fruit.

Single-varietal Blaufränkisch, farmed biodynamically. Restraint reigns in the cellar: spontaneous fermentation in open wooden vats, 22 days of maceration, followed by 20 months of aging on the fine lees in large, used oak casks. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, with 13.5% ABV.

Deep black-red in the glass with subtle violet reflections. The nose reveals cassis, dark berries, toasted nuances, cocoa, a touch of peat, and fine leather; with aeration, tobacco and Kampot pepper emerge. The palate is dry and juicy, where dense fruit reminiscent of black cherry rests on a note of wet limestone, framed by polished tannins and stimulating acidity. Impressive already, yet destined to gain even greater stature with bottle age.

Kobe beef with Madagascar pepper, star anise, and Swiss chard potato gratin, lightly smoked pork belly with dumplings stuffed with dried plum, or a vegetarian pairing of salsify with truffle and Brussels sprouts.

Roland Velich, named Winemaker of the Year by Falstaff in 2023, works with ancient Blaufränkisch vines in Lutzmannsburg whose genetic heritage is virtually irreplaceable. A wine that will reward several years in the cellar.