Lutzmannsburg Ried Maissner 2022

A cool-toned Blaufränkisch built on precision rather than fullness: 13.5% vol., vinified dry, with lively acidity and a tannin that carries the fruit rather than covering it. Roland Velich deliberately holds back in the cellar, and that restraint is exactly what comes through here. This wine speaks of its origin, not of its technique.

The Ried Maissner lies in Lutzmannsburg in Burgenland, on a clay-rich plateau. The vines are rooted above a prehistoric volcano; its iron-rich soils give the Blaufränkisch its mineral line. Many of the vines have stood in this soil for 50 to 110 years, from a time before Blaufränkisch was bred for yield. Their crops are tiny, and the wines correspondingly concentrated.

Pure Blaufränkisch, known in Germany as Lemberger, from biodynamically farmed vineyards. Spontaneous fermentation in open wooden vats, 22 days of maceration, followed by 20 months of ageing on fine lees in large, used wood. Neither fined nor filtered.

Deep ruby red with violet hues. On the nose, black cherry and dark berries, followed by wet limestone, herbal spice and a fine floral note. On the palate taut and concentrated, silky tannin, a cool, long finish.

Roast wild boar with cranberries, duck breast with red cabbage, rack of lamb with rosemary or beef fillet in red wine jus. Also pairs well with braised beef, porcini risotto, mature hard cheese and game terrines.

Moric farms 22.5 hectares in Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmarkt. Falstaff named Roland Velich Winemaker of the Year in 2023.